Just a few photos to help with the process of converting a standard Eken (or Iphone type) cable to a USB Host cable to allow connecting a USB keyboard, mouse, thumb drive, or with power, a hard drive, etc.First step is separating the shell. I used an Exacto knife to carefully press a little down the parting line at each of the 4 corners of the shell, and also at the fake strain relief (really part of the hard plastic shell) surrounding the cable.This view is the top of the connector. When re-assembling it is very important to remember which way the pieces go, including pins, and the small catches at either side of the connector. Photos like these help.
Make a USB Host Cable
vtpad
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[quote author=gaban link=topic=2137.msg104967#msg104967 date=1292886438]
Too bad all the image are gone.. I can't follow the steps :'(
[/quote]
I can see the images. Can you at least see the links to the images?
Too bad all the image are gone.. I can't follow the steps :'(
[/quote]
I can see the images. Can you at least see the links to the images?
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1 Posts
Hi Vtpad, I want to ask you. To connect something other device (mouse,keyboard) by USB I need only modd the cable or need any other changes on my EKEN?
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10 Posts
[quote author=papapacoporras link=topic=2137.msg98784#msg98784 date=1291033529]
Hello,
I make the cable, but i can?t connect nothing. always say unable to enumerate USB device in dmesg.
in dmesg i find:
usb 1.2: new low speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address2
but and errors like that
usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71
or
usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110
and a
hub 2.0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB device on port 1 o 2
Please how i can use it?
I try diferent Usb Mouse, Usb keyboards, Usb Bluetooth, i put an USB hub in the middle
but the ressult is always the same ... nothing
thnks
[/quote]
i am getting the same thing is there a solution for this???
Hello,
I make the cable, but i can?t connect nothing. always say unable to enumerate USB device in dmesg.
in dmesg i find:
usb 1.2: new low speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address2
but and errors like that
usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -71
or
usb 1-2: device descriptor read/64, error -110
and a
hub 2.0:1.0: unable to enumerate USB device on port 1 o 2
Please how i can use it?
I try diferent Usb Mouse, Usb keyboards, Usb Bluetooth, i put an USB hub in the middle
but the ressult is always the same ... nothing
thnks
[/quote]
i am getting the same thing is there a solution for this???
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8 Posts
Hi guys, I'new to this just got my m001 and made a usb host cable from vtpad instructions.I used a ipod cable from ebay ?0.99 and a female usb end from a 4port hub from poundland.Works fine on usb keybd mouse and usb memory stick.I used a 5mm piece of heatshrink tubing over pin 12 for insulation and clear silicone glue very fiddly job.My cheapo usb hub didn't work on it but an old belkin hub works fine with memory stick mouse and keyboard all at the same TIME! Where can I find to pinout for the 30pin connector maybe there is more useful stuff there I can use without opening the cover.
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10 Posts
To Shaka1976 ... or anyone in the group ... since vtpad's picture links disappeared:
1. When you switch the positions of the top and bottom sides of the pins, are you switching top to bottom and bottom to top of just pins 9, 12, 13, and 30, or all 30 pins? I'm assuming just the 4 pins.
2. Is there any modding to the USB end, or is it just red to red, white to white, black to black, and green to green? Again, I'm assuming that its just direct splices to the female USB connector.
Thanks for your help.
1. When you switch the positions of the top and bottom sides of the pins, are you switching top to bottom and bottom to top of just pins 9, 12, 13, and 30, or all 30 pins? I'm assuming just the 4 pins.
2. Is there any modding to the USB end, or is it just red to red, white to white, black to black, and green to green? Again, I'm assuming that its just direct splices to the female USB connector.
Thanks for your help.
[quote author=Twoton link=topic=2137.msg136405#msg136405 date=1297697347]
To Shaka1976 ... or anyone in the group ... since vtpad's picture links disappeared:
1. When you switch the positions of the top and bottom sides of the pins, are you switching top to bottom and bottom to top of just pins 9, 12, 13, and 30, or all 30 pins? I'm assuming just the 4 pins.
2. Is there any modding to the USB end, or is it just red to red, white to white, black to black, and green to green? Again, I'm assuming that its just direct splices to the female USB connector.
Thanks for your help.
[/quote]
1. What you mean? pins is only on one side on connector - all contacts on pad is on one place
2. In my case, wire colors on USB side was be same as in picture
To Shaka1976 ... or anyone in the group ... since vtpad's picture links disappeared:
1. When you switch the positions of the top and bottom sides of the pins, are you switching top to bottom and bottom to top of just pins 9, 12, 13, and 30, or all 30 pins? I'm assuming just the 4 pins.
2. Is there any modding to the USB end, or is it just red to red, white to white, black to black, and green to green? Again, I'm assuming that its just direct splices to the female USB connector.
Thanks for your help.
[/quote]
1. What you mean? pins is only on one side on connector - all contacts on pad is on one place
2. In my case, wire colors on USB side was be same as in picture
Joined
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10 Posts
[quote author=Lietotajs link=topic=2137.msg136492#msg136492 date=1297706377]
[quote author=Twoton link=topic=2137.msg136405#msg136405 date=1297697347]
To Shaka1976 ... or anyone in the group ... since vtpad's picture links disappeared:
1. When you switch the positions of the top and bottom sides of the pins, are you switching top to bottom and bottom to top of just pins 9, 12, 13, and 30, or all 30 pins? I'm assuming just the 4 pins.
2. Is there any modding to the USB end, or is it just red to red, white to white, black to black, and green to green? Again, I'm assuming that its just direct splices to the female USB connector.
Thanks for your help.
[/quote]
1. What you mean? pins is only on one side on connector - all contacts on pad is on one place
2. In my case, wire colors on USB side was be same as in picture
[/quote]
1. There are no pictures, so I'm going by what is written alone. Are the pins round on one side and flat on the other? What is meant by swap the positions in vtpad's thread? I need more info on what to swap.
[quote author=Twoton link=topic=2137.msg136405#msg136405 date=1297697347]
To Shaka1976 ... or anyone in the group ... since vtpad's picture links disappeared:
1. When you switch the positions of the top and bottom sides of the pins, are you switching top to bottom and bottom to top of just pins 9, 12, 13, and 30, or all 30 pins? I'm assuming just the 4 pins.
2. Is there any modding to the USB end, or is it just red to red, white to white, black to black, and green to green? Again, I'm assuming that its just direct splices to the female USB connector.
Thanks for your help.
[/quote]
1. What you mean? pins is only on one side on connector - all contacts on pad is on one place
2. In my case, wire colors on USB side was be same as in picture
[/quote]
1. There are no pictures, so I'm going by what is written alone. Are the pins round on one side and flat on the other? What is meant by swap the positions in vtpad's thread? I need more info on what to swap.
Joined
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10 Posts
[quote author=vtpad link=topic=2137.msg16087#msg16087 date=1278819098]
Now, before reassembly of the shell is the time to test the cable. Be extremely careful to put it in place without shorting any pins -- this should be easier if you insulated them with hot glue.
After it checked out, I put the Eken connector shell back together using the original photo to make sure I had the small catches and buttons at the edges of the connector in the right positions. I also used the red dots I added earlier to make sure the metal shields were in the right position and the small mark on the connector shell (cast in) was also helpful in reassembling it right.
After a trial fit, I applied a little hot glue to a few points at the corners of the connector, being careful not to get any on the moving parts of the buttons, and reassembled it. A slower drying glue would have been better, but I managed to fumble it all in place in time.
A final note -- mine didn't work after I reassembeled the shell. But luckily I figured out that it had nothing to do with the wiring. It was the plastic shell itself which interfered with the EKEN case. The connector is square. And the Eken side is beveled. There is an interference at the top of the connector when it is plugged in.
This probably accounts for most of the "flaky cable" problems Eken owners have reported in the past. If you file back the plastic a little at the top of the connector, you can then plug it all the way in until the catches snap. This last mod made my cable work perfectly.
I've since tested a thumb drive, keyboard, mouse, and a portable hard drive (this last requires powered hub, as the Eken cannot provide the 5 volt USB power needed).
Hope your cable works as well as mine does.
[/quote]
***********
I opted to reposition the pins without unsoldering and re-soldering. This isn't easy, since the glue has to be scraped off, and the pins are very hard to insert while attached to the wires. They are very fragile and the scale is tiny.
What do you mean "reposition the pins". Installing them turned 180 degrees? Are there 2 contact sides where this would make a difference? Just repositioning a round pin in a hole accomplishes nothing. I don't have pictures or a cable in front of me, so I'm trying to understand your logic.
*************
This third photo shows the pins removed from the connector. Notice that the pins have a top side and a bottom side. You will need to switch their positions after separating them from the hot glue, and then make sure that the top and bottoms are still lined up the same way with the connector.
Are the top and bottom sides shaped differently? When you say switch their positions, do you mean turning them 180 degrees, switching them bottom to top and top to bottom - I'm lost as to what you mean. And what do you mean by make sure the tops and bottoms are still lined up the same way with the connector - you just switched their positions - they won't be lined up the same way unless you mean front to back.
*****************
Notice the holes in the connector. There are 30 of them, and they are arranged in groups of 3.
Why is this important? If there are only 4 wires, and they go back in the same pin connections, who cares if there are 30 or 50?
****************
Notice the position of the connector in the photo (bottom side up) with the plastic tabs at the top. Also note the orientation of the pins, with the long part of the pin on the bottom. The connector hole locations are numbered from right to left in this position, 1 to 30. The holes are in groups of three. So pin hole 9 is the third group, and the third hole from the right. In this case, the pink wire goes there.
The pins with the long part at the bottom - is this before or after the switch?
******************
Please note, perform this mod at your own risk. You can damage your Eken if you miswire it, so be extremely careful to get the pins in the right holes.
This is why I am trying to get complete information.
******************
Now, before reassembly of the shell is the time to test the cable. Be extremely careful to put it in place without shorting any pins -- this should be easier if you insulated them with hot glue.
After it checked out, I put the Eken connector shell back together using the original photo to make sure I had the small catches and buttons at the edges of the connector in the right positions. I also used the red dots I added earlier to make sure the metal shields were in the right position and the small mark on the connector shell (cast in) was also helpful in reassembling it right.
After a trial fit, I applied a little hot glue to a few points at the corners of the connector, being careful not to get any on the moving parts of the buttons, and reassembled it. A slower drying glue would have been better, but I managed to fumble it all in place in time.
A final note -- mine didn't work after I reassembeled the shell. But luckily I figured out that it had nothing to do with the wiring. It was the plastic shell itself which interfered with the EKEN case. The connector is square. And the Eken side is beveled. There is an interference at the top of the connector when it is plugged in.
This probably accounts for most of the "flaky cable" problems Eken owners have reported in the past. If you file back the plastic a little at the top of the connector, you can then plug it all the way in until the catches snap. This last mod made my cable work perfectly.
I've since tested a thumb drive, keyboard, mouse, and a portable hard drive (this last requires powered hub, as the Eken cannot provide the 5 volt USB power needed).
Hope your cable works as well as mine does.
[/quote]
***********
I opted to reposition the pins without unsoldering and re-soldering. This isn't easy, since the glue has to be scraped off, and the pins are very hard to insert while attached to the wires. They are very fragile and the scale is tiny.
What do you mean "reposition the pins". Installing them turned 180 degrees? Are there 2 contact sides where this would make a difference? Just repositioning a round pin in a hole accomplishes nothing. I don't have pictures or a cable in front of me, so I'm trying to understand your logic.
*************
This third photo shows the pins removed from the connector. Notice that the pins have a top side and a bottom side. You will need to switch their positions after separating them from the hot glue, and then make sure that the top and bottoms are still lined up the same way with the connector.
Are the top and bottom sides shaped differently? When you say switch their positions, do you mean turning them 180 degrees, switching them bottom to top and top to bottom - I'm lost as to what you mean. And what do you mean by make sure the tops and bottoms are still lined up the same way with the connector - you just switched their positions - they won't be lined up the same way unless you mean front to back.
*****************
Notice the holes in the connector. There are 30 of them, and they are arranged in groups of 3.
Why is this important? If there are only 4 wires, and they go back in the same pin connections, who cares if there are 30 or 50?
****************
Notice the position of the connector in the photo (bottom side up) with the plastic tabs at the top. Also note the orientation of the pins, with the long part of the pin on the bottom. The connector hole locations are numbered from right to left in this position, 1 to 30. The holes are in groups of three. So pin hole 9 is the third group, and the third hole from the right. In this case, the pink wire goes there.
The pins with the long part at the bottom - is this before or after the switch?
******************
Please note, perform this mod at your own risk. You can damage your Eken if you miswire it, so be extremely careful to get the pins in the right holes.
This is why I am trying to get complete information.
******************
Joined
·
315 Posts
***********
What do you mean "reposition the pins". Installing them turned 180 degrees? Are there 2 contact sides where this would make a difference? Just repositioning a round pin in a hole accomplishes nothing. I don't have pictures or a cable in front of me, so I'm trying to understand your logic.
"reposition the pins" means:
Move ipod's pin 15 to eken's slot 29 or 30 (both are gnd)
Move ipod's pin 23 to eken's slot 9 or 10 (both are +5)
Move ipod's pin 25 to eken's slot 12 (Data-)
Move ipod's pin 27 to eken's slot 13 (Data+)
*************
Pins have a flat bottom and a protuberance on top. You don't want to flip them over. Remember their orientation in respect to the connector.
*****************
It's important because it makes it easier to count the pins. 3, 6, 9, 12, etc. instead of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8...
****************
The pins with the long part at the bottom - is this before or after the switch?
Pins will always have long part at the bottom.
******************
This is why I am trying to get complete information.
Cool, he as merely mentioning it because if the + and - get switched you could have a dead eken.
What do you mean "reposition the pins". Installing them turned 180 degrees? Are there 2 contact sides where this would make a difference? Just repositioning a round pin in a hole accomplishes nothing. I don't have pictures or a cable in front of me, so I'm trying to understand your logic.
"reposition the pins" means:
Move ipod's pin 15 to eken's slot 29 or 30 (both are gnd)
Move ipod's pin 23 to eken's slot 9 or 10 (both are +5)
Move ipod's pin 25 to eken's slot 12 (Data-)
Move ipod's pin 27 to eken's slot 13 (Data+)
*************
Are the top and bottom sides shaped differently? When you say switch their positions, do you mean turning them 180 degrees, switching them bottom to top and top to bottom - I'm lost as to what you mean. And what do you mean by make sure the tops and bottoms are still lined up the same way with the connector - you just switched their positions - they won't be lined up the same way unless you mean front to back.
Pins have a flat bottom and a protuberance on top. You don't want to flip them over. Remember their orientation in respect to the connector.
*****************
Why is this important? If there are only 4 wires, and they go back in the same pin connections, who cares if there are 30 or 50?
It's important because it makes it easier to count the pins. 3, 6, 9, 12, etc. instead of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8...
****************
The pins with the long part at the bottom - is this before or after the switch?
Pins will always have long part at the bottom.
******************
This is why I am trying to get complete information.
Cool, he as merely mentioning it because if the + and - get switched you could have a dead eken.
Joined
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10 Posts
[quote author=carpenter940 link=topic=2137.msg136565#msg136565 date=1297716509]
"reposition the pins" means:
Move ipod's pin 15 to eken's slot 29 or 30 (both are gnd)
Move ipod's pin 23 to eken's slot 9 or 10 (both are +5)
Move ipod's pin 25 to eken's slot 12 (Data-)
Move ipod's pin 27 to eken's slot 13 (Data+)
*************
[/quote]
Thanks humungously ... that explains everything. Thank you so very much. Without the reference pictures, I was completely lost.
"reposition the pins" means:
Move ipod's pin 15 to eken's slot 29 or 30 (both are gnd)
Move ipod's pin 23 to eken's slot 9 or 10 (both are +5)
Move ipod's pin 25 to eken's slot 12 (Data-)
Move ipod's pin 27 to eken's slot 13 (Data+)
*************
[/quote]
Thanks humungously ... that explains everything. Thank you so very much. Without the reference pictures, I was completely lost.
I upload pictures, enjoy!
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![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
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10 Posts
Being that it appears that you are very knowledgeable, I'm hoping that you know the answer to this puzzle, or know someone that you can pass it on to that does.
I attempted to install ECOTOX 1.1.1 last night ... everything was loading and doing its thing successfully ... it responded "waiting for you to remove SD card" ... once I did, it said "now reboot".
It rebooted ... nothing but the indicator lights on ... a black screen.
I know pretty much nothing about Linux programming.
This is my stats: Android 1.6, kernel 2.6.29, SDK 1.7.2
Any ideas on what I can do to get things running again? I'd hate to just have a $130 brick.
I attempted to install ECOTOX 1.1.1 last night ... everything was loading and doing its thing successfully ... it responded "waiting for you to remove SD card" ... once I did, it said "now reboot".
It rebooted ... nothing but the indicator lights on ... a black screen.
I know pretty much nothing about Linux programming.
This is my stats: Android 1.6, kernel 2.6.29, SDK 1.7.2
Any ideas on what I can do to get things running again? I'd hate to just have a $130 brick.
[quote author=Twoton link=topic=2137.msg137722#msg137722 date=1297946406]
Being that it appears that you are very knowledgeable, I'm hoping that you know the answer to this puzzle, or know someone that you can pass it on to that does.
I attempted to install ECOTOX 1.1.1 last night ... everything was loading and doing its thing successfully ... it responded "waiting for you to remove SD card" ... once I did, it said "now reboot".
It rebooted ... nothing but the indicator lights on ... a black screen.
I know pretty much nothing about Linux programming.
This is my stats: Android 1.6, kernel 2.6.29, SDK 1.7.2
Any ideas on what I can do to get things running again? I'd hate to just have a $130 brick.
[/quote]
Looks that you brick your eken! You need to reprogram SPI serial flash: http://slatedroid.com/index.php?topic=6462.0
Being that it appears that you are very knowledgeable, I'm hoping that you know the answer to this puzzle, or know someone that you can pass it on to that does.
I attempted to install ECOTOX 1.1.1 last night ... everything was loading and doing its thing successfully ... it responded "waiting for you to remove SD card" ... once I did, it said "now reboot".
It rebooted ... nothing but the indicator lights on ... a black screen.
I know pretty much nothing about Linux programming.
This is my stats: Android 1.6, kernel 2.6.29, SDK 1.7.2
Any ideas on what I can do to get things running again? I'd hate to just have a $130 brick.
[/quote]
Looks that you brick your eken! You need to reprogram SPI serial flash: http://slatedroid.com/index.php?topic=6462.0
Joined
·
10 Posts
Thanks Lietotajs -
I guess I'm screwed.
After going through both of ECOTOX's firmware updates with no success, and heartless' Windows CE update, I was able to get Lpj's Relax to load fine.
I was thinking I had succeeded until I got a message on the screen "trial period has expired". This locked up many of the functions.
Oh... thanks for uploading those pictures Lietotajs ... Its easier to see what's going on when you have visuals!
So this is where I stand - Lpj's Relax loaded on my M001, but it says "trial period had expired". Is there any way I can eliminate this message and get my M001 running without desoldering proms and reprogramming them? Is there a software fix?
I'm no programmer ... although if ECOTOX can point me in the best direction to learn Linux code, I'd like to start learning.
I guess I'm screwed.
After going through both of ECOTOX's firmware updates with no success, and heartless' Windows CE update, I was able to get Lpj's Relax to load fine.
I was thinking I had succeeded until I got a message on the screen "trial period has expired". This locked up many of the functions.
Oh... thanks for uploading those pictures Lietotajs ... Its easier to see what's going on when you have visuals!
So this is where I stand - Lpj's Relax loaded on my M001, but it says "trial period had expired". Is there any way I can eliminate this message and get my M001 running without desoldering proms and reprogramming them? Is there a software fix?
I'm no programmer ... although if ECOTOX can point me in the best direction to learn Linux code, I'd like to start learning.
Joined
·
10 Posts
Also - If reprogramming a prom is the only alternative -
Is there someone out there that - for a price - would allow me to mail them the brick with prepaid return postage to have it reprogrammed and loaded with ECOTOX 1.1.1 where the damn thing would work without the "gremlins" in the hardware.
Repost: Solved part of the problem with Ecotox 1.4 - boots fine, but all programs are flakey.
Is there someone out there that - for a price - would allow me to mail them the brick with prepaid return postage to have it reprogrammed and loaded with ECOTOX 1.1.1 where the damn thing would work without the "gremlins" in the hardware.
Repost: Solved part of the problem with Ecotox 1.4 - boots fine, but all programs are flakey.
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