Now, before reassembly of the shell is the time to test the cable. Be extremely careful to put it in place without shorting any pins -- this should be easier if you insulated them with hot glue.After it checked out, I put the Eken connector shell back together using the original photo to make sure I had the small catches and buttons at the edges of the connector in the right positions. I also used the red dots I added earlier to make sure the metal shields were in the right position and the small mark on the connector shell (cast in) was also helpful in reassembling it right. After a trial fit, I applied a little hot glue to a few points at the corners of the connector, being careful not to get any on the moving parts of the buttons, and reassembled it. A slower drying glue would have been better, but I managed to fumble it all in place in time.A final note -- mine didn't work after I reassembeled the shell. But luckily I figured out that it had nothing to do with the wiring. It was the plastic shell itself which interfered with the EKEN case. The connector is square. And the Eken side is beveled. There is an interference at the top of the connector when it is plugged in. This probably accounts for most of the "flaky cable" problems Eken owners have reported in the past. If you file back the plastic a little at the top of the connector, you can then plug it all the way in until the catches snap. This last mod made my cable work perfectly.I've since tested a thumb drive, keyboard, mouse, and a portable hard drive (this last requires powered hub, as the Eken cannot provide the 5 volt USB power needed).Hope your cable works as well as mine does.