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Did you hit the reset button?
 

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Same happened to me...PROBLEM: There are two wire-wound inductors on the CPU board inside. They should be glued to capacitor that is next to them so they do not come off when they get hotter then they should. That solution does not work, they still come off.SOLUTION: Open it up and re-solder the inductor which should be obviously lifted from the board.This fixed it for me, but then it broke again. I did not have a proper soldering iron nor any extra solder to do a good job though. Right now it works as long as it is laying flat... if I move it around it goes blank again. As soon as my friend brings over a good soldering iron later today I am going to add a bunch of solder on it and then glue the heck out of it. Hopefully that will fix it permanently. If not I will have to order some higher-quality inductors from DigiKey and replace them. First I will have to figure out how many henrys though. I'm guessing a 10uH will do the job.Because of this problem I have decided not to re-sell them on eBay with my custom firmware. The hardware is just cheap junk unfortunately. Fine for a modder like me, but I would not want to mod each one and handle returns.
 

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markmorado;34868 said:
can you post step by step instructions on how to pop open the zt180?it would be of a lot help to newbies like us who would want to fix if it happens in future.
To open it up, you only really need a paper clip. - you need to insert the paper clip in the holes at the top of the tablet (opposite end from usb/power etc). You can do this one at a time. By doing this you will be disconnecting a series of clips that run up the sides of the tablet.-When you insert the paper clip, you should hear/see a click of some sort and the screen should actually rise up from the base. -Once you do this to one side you need to do it to the other (Insert paper clip into other hole).-Now the other side should click and kind of pop up-you can use your hands to lift the screen away from the base gently.- When I was doing this I had to lift the screen away a little bit at a time and I actually had to reinsert the paper clip into the hole because It hadn't fully unclipped-When you get this far don't pull the screen away too fast because there is a wire attaching the screen to the battery (battery is attached to back cover)-Simply remove the wire from the board it is attached toHopefully you will have it open now! When you want to put it back together just reattach the battery and put the two pieces together. All the clips will magically snap into place. Good Luck, and if anyone has anything to add/help feel free.
 

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My ZT-180 arrived 2 days ago. Pulled it out of the Box, pluged the charger in and pushed the power button... nothing happened. So I tried a few things, like re-flashing and stuff nothing worked. While handling the device I noticed that something is rolling around inside. So i opened it up an guess what... it was one of the inductors. The Core was broken so it came off. Also the windings are damaged. So I think my only Chance is to get a new inductor an solder it to the Board. Any other Idea's?Hansman
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
[quote name='rpmccormick;34588]Same happened to me...PROBLEM: There are two wire-wound inductors on the CPU board inside. They should be glued to capacitor that is next to them so they do not come off when they get hotter then they should. That solution does not work' date=' they still come off.SOLUTION: Open it up and re-solder the inductor which should be obviously lifted from the board.This fixed it for me, but then it broke again. I did not have a proper soldering iron nor any extra solder to do a good job though. Right now it works as long as it is laying flat... if I move it around it goes blank again. As soon as my friend brings over a good soldering iron later today I am going to add a bunch of solder on it and then glue the heck out of it. Hopefully that will fix it permanently. If not I will have to order some higher-quality inductors from DigiKey and replace them. First I will have to figure out how many henrys though. I'm guessing a 10uH will do the job.Because of this problem I have decided not to re-sell them on eBay with my custom firmware. The hardware is just cheap junk unfortunately. Fine for a modder like me, but I would not want to mod each one and handle returns.[/QUOTE']That's exactly what happened.. in my case, the inductor got glued to the back cover and probably broke in 2 with some movement.My plan now is to use some glue to get the inductor together and then try to solder the broken end of the cable.
 

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I have the same problem of dead screen and I think I heard something rolling around inside the tablet> But I suspect I lost the inductor after opening it. Can someone specify the value of the inductor? Some pictures of the location of the inductor will be helpful.Thanks.Ntah'ngoh
 

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Hello all!I have also a problem with my Zenithink ePAD 10,2".I started the ePAD all works fine and after about 10 mins, the screen turn black.I restarted it. From this time on I only see the start screen (ePAD) after 2 secondsthe TUX logo from Linux cames up on the left upper side, the cursor blinks 2 times and the the black screen again. I tried to flash the device again with a custom ROM, but that's also not impossible.The burntool finds the device, and before I can press the "Start Flashing" button, I lost the connection to my PC.Does anyone have an idea, what I could do, to get up Android running again? Or may it's and hardware failure?best regardsFisH
 

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I checked the inductor and it was loose but not broken. Nevertheless, I changed it and the screen still did not light up. But by shining a light on the screen, I discovered that the tablet had booted up and there was the normal display on the screen. The problem is that the screen is so dim that, without shining a bright light on it, it is impossible to detect that it is on and it is impossible to read. Because the brightness of the screen is controlled by software and the display cannot be read, I cannot change it through software. Is there any hardware-based method to increase the brightness of the screen? What could have caused this problem? Thanks for help.Ntah'ngoh
 

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SoundSurfer;34526 said:
F***!Just turned it on and nothing!It just lights up the blue power light and nothing!Was just surfing the Web and it locked... then went blank :confused:Any help? :confused::confused:
Do a quick test, boot the unit up, giving it about a minute or two for Android to open comletely and shine a bright light at the screen and see if there is a dim image of the desktop, if so, it's the backlight that is dead and the inductor in the upper righthand corner of the motherboard, that has become disconneted. You need to be very carful if you are going to resolder it. Make sure the power is off to the unit, this is a very high voltage circuit and could give you a nasty bite and be carful the amount of solder you use, too much and the circuit could start to arc..... I"ll post sme pictures when I get home from work unless someone beats me to it.
 

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[quote name='rpmccormick;34588]Same happened to me...PROBLEM: There are two wire-wound inductors on the CPU board inside. They should be glued to capacitor that is next to them so they do not come off when they get hotter then they should. That solution does not work' date=' they still come off.SOLUTION: Open it up and re-solder the inductor which should be obviously lifted from the board.This fixed it for me, but then it broke again. I did not have a proper soldering iron nor any extra solder to do a good job though. Right now it works as long as it is laying flat... if I move it around it goes blank again. As soon as my friend brings over a good soldering iron later today I am going to add a bunch of solder on it and then glue the heck out of it. Hopefully that will fix it permanently. If not I will have to order some higher-quality inductors from DigiKey and replace them. First I will have to figure out how many henrys though. I'm guessing a 10uH will do the job.Because of this problem I have decided not to re-sell them on eBay with my custom firmware. The hardware is just cheap junk unfortunately. Fine for a modder like me, but I would not want to mod each one and handle returns.[/QUOTE']The inductor in mine is 100uH, if you are talking about the one for the backlight driver, in the upper right corner of the motherboard.
 

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[quote name='teslabe;47748]Do a quick test' date=' boot the unit up, giving it about a minute or two for Android to open comletely and shine a bright light at the screen and see if there is a dim image of the desktop, if so, it's the backlight that is dead and the inductor in the upper righthand corner of the motherboard, that has become disconneted. You need to be very carful if you are going to resolder it. Make sure the power is off to the unit, this is a very high voltage circuit and could give you a nasty bite and be carful the amount of solder you use, too much and the circuit could start to arc..... I"ll post sme pictures when I get home from work unless someone beats me to it.[/QUOTE'] teslabe,no one seems to have posted pictures yet. please post them when you have some time. thanks.ntah'ngoh
 

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[quote name='teslabe;47748]Do a quick test' date=' boot the unit up, giving it about a minute or two for Android to open comletely and shine a bright light at the screen and see if there is a dim image of the desktop, if so, it's the backlight that is dead and the inductor in the upper righthand corner of the motherboard, that has become disconneted. You need to be very carful if you are going to resolder it. Make sure the power is off to the unit, this is a very high voltage circuit and could give you a nasty bite and be carful the amount of solder you use, too much and the circuit could start to arc..... I"ll post sme pictures when I get home from work unless someone beats me to it.[/QUOTE'] The desktop is very dim as the quick test confirmed. I have opened up the tablet and it is indeed a backlight problem for the LED tubes do not light. All tests seem to show that the inductors are fine. What is the voltage or current that supplies the backlight tubes? There is the main motherboard and smaller one underneath to which the wires for the backlight LEDs are attached. I suspect that the problem should be on this smaller board. Any other suggestions?Thanks.ntah'ngoh
 
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