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Hi there, been reading slatedroid for the last 3 weeks, and wednesday my apads finally arrived, both sporting the RK2808 ^__^first one is A-OK, no problems, great device... second one came with a display error some of you might know as the negative black effect ( http://www.apple-touch.com/ipod-touch-screen-problem-negative-black-effect-1534.php ). but opposed to the ipod touch and similar devices, this is NOT (!) a firmware error and NOT fixable by firmware. I opened it up right away, and what i found was pretty much what i expected to find... low-class assembly. the problem was the flexband cable connecting the screen (the screen mind you, not the digitizer) to the mainboard. toying with said cable, i was able to reproduce EVERY screen error i have read on this forum, from the pink hue one, over the white cross -> blue cross one to the deathly "one line on the screen" error....the problem lies within the little plastic thingy that holds the cable down (dont know what it's called, but it's been around ever since LIF connectors), one of its hinges was simply broken...pressed the sucker against the mainboard, fixed it in place with tape, reassembled the whole pad, works like a charm ^__^if anybody wants, i can post some pictures of this ^^edit : so, here are the requested pictures
 

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first thing : you have to be VERY careful with the black layer on top of the screen...take a fingernail and slide it back and forth between the black layer and the grey casing.you'll feel it going down after some movement, this is when you can lift up the top layer. BUT BE WARNED, if you pull it up any farther than to the visible edge of the screen, it will detach itself from the digitizer (the translucent thingy on top of the screen for touch-input), and never attach itself again the right way.when you got it up, take a credit card, id or whatever plastic you have lying around, slide it under the gap you created with your fingernail and trace the edge of the screen with it.after that you should be able to see like 10 or 12 little screws holding the front plate and the back together. you're going to need a 0,8mm screwdriver or smaller to get them out... getting the glued layer up from the front-cover is the tricky part, after you're done with the little screws, you have access to every cable and component, there is absolutely NO need to take out the PCBs ^^hope this helps, if you've got any other questions, just ask ^^
 

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shooric;13204 said:
Thank you DrKawashima. Got my screen issue resolved. Eken M001 is a bit different from your screenshot but issue was the same.
What issues you had? I have the "white" line on the wery top edge of the screen. Also, the rainbow of colors on the creen do not have the crispiness, but look very much like dull. This does not bother me, but I hope there is room for improvement.
 

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[quote name='DrKawashima;11490]after that you should be able to see like 10 or 12 little screws holding the front plate and the back together. you're going to need a 0' date='8mm screwdriver or smaller to get them out... [/QUOTE'] 10 to 12? What version do you have? The one with the aluminum back? I ask because I remember reading in disassembly instructions there were just 4 little screws underneath that plastic cover.(I'm not planning to take mine apart, it works fine but I'm surprised by the difference)
 

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[quote name='DrKawashima;11490]after that you should be able to see like 10 or 12 little screws holding the front plate and the back together. you're going to need a 0' date='8mm screwdriver or smaller to get them out... [/QUOTE'] 10 to 12? What version do you have? The one with the aluminum back? I ask because I remember reading in disassembly instructions there were just 4 little screws underneath that plastic cover.(I'm not planning to take mine apart, it works fine but I'm surprised by the difference)
 
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