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Thank you for the well thought out helpful response to the question.Now for all the non-smart asses who are interested in this, does anyone know of a possible replacement that we can buy? Is there a certain type of battery that we should look for? What would the replacement entail, just soldering a couple of wires? Does anyone know of a better battery that will fit in the existing case?
 

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I am waiting for my Apad to come but as I see in the pictures we wont need anything soldering.we can buy a 4000 or 5000 mah 7.4 volts Li-Poly (can someone confirm voltage) Maybe we'll need to redo the conector.
 

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[quote name='FenceMan;8915]Thank you for the well thought out helpful response to the question.Now for all the non-smart asses who are interested in this' date=' does anyone know of a possible replacement that we can buy? Is there a certain type of battery that we should look for? What would the replacement entail, just soldering a couple of wires? Does anyone know of a better battery that will fit in the existing case?[/QUOTE'] WTF, it wasn't a smart ass response thank you. The thread has instructions on how he opened it and several mentions from others about the additional room that could accommodate a replacement battery. I assumed the fact you had asked if it was possible that you may have missed it and was only trying to help without re-iterating someone elses information. I do believe you asked if it's possible to open the case, this thread proves it is. You also asked if it's possible to install a new battery and the thread also mentions the additional room (without which you couldn't) so therefore it is. Oh, and you asked where to start, which is exactly what I gave you. So excuse me for trying to be helpful. Next time try and be more specific in your original post. From the photos in that thread you can see the battery is simply soldered to pads on the mainboard so it should be a relatively easy swap.
 

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Sometimes, if the answer is smart, and the guy who comments is an ass, it seems to him smartass... Just a thought. Frankly, I don't know why anyone needs to call someone else on here a smartass. If the comment was smartass, aren't the rest of us smart enough to know that? Why insult our collective intelligence by pointing it out? Anyway... Carnivore has obtained significant net-fame for his mods involving batteries. At some point an enterprising company - my bet is on rapidrepair - will make a larger mah battery that fits in the existing space, using the existing connector. I would like someone to wire a connector in parallel (not serial, right? I always confuse that until the rare occasion I sit down to do it...) to the existing battery to a port on the back so you can plug a battery externally. That would be cool. Or cooler still, put a solar panel on the back...
 

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"Fit" is such a limiting goal. Find the battery you want and MAKE it fit. I'd like to wire a transformer up to a car battery and put the thing on wheels, for instance...
 

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All I'm saying is I have better things to do with my life than troll forums being a smartass (I'm 38 with a wife and two kids and do have a life) and WAS trying to be helpful. Anyway, whatever, no big deal.As for 'fit', I know I'd rather keep the aesthetics the same so getting the biggest battery that fits is preferable.
 

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Just to put my 2c worth in. I don't have my device yet, but looking at the pictures, it seems that the battery is a simple 2 wire job. This means it's a 'dumb' battery, ie the battery accepts a charge, and it's either the onboard charging circuit in the device or the charger that determines how long to charge the battery.The good news it that any battery of the same basic output voltage and type (lipo?) that is two or more wires should just solder straight in. A third wire indicates a smart battery that tells the charger how full the charge of the battery is, so the battery isn't over charged. It could safely be ignored.Since Viper is an Aussie, it's likely he'd find something that works at a local Battery World, although these people don't seem to be the smartest of the bunch.After I've had mine a little while and the novelty factor has worn off, I'm likely to (safely) crack it open to check out the gizzards, and change some stuff around. The supposed 2hr battery life is something that needs fixing.Edit: Something along these lines would add in nicely if it fits. It's the same voltage ouput and takes 4.2v input to charge. A 5v charge wouldn't hurt it at all. Run the battery in parallel and you'd roughly double the battery life.
 

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The existing battery is 2500mAh @ 3.7V and looks to be about maybe 70mm x 70mm. The space in the top of the apad seems to be a little over half so say 100mm x 100mm. As an example the battery I listed above is 96mm x 35mm so two of them would give you 4600mAh and take up 96mm x 70mm, three would give 6900mAh and take up 96mm x 105mm. If the standard 2500mAh battery gives you 2 hours then these setups would give 3.7 and 5.5 hours respectively. All depends on exactly how much room is in there is suppose.
 

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itanium;9433 said:
the device you are talking about runs with a single 3.7V battery? I thought all of them were 7.4V...I'm reffering to this http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30996 and this http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39169
This is a thread regarding the aPad iRobot, not the Eken M001 (or clone of as per your link). The thread showing an opened aPad clearly shows a single 3.7V 2500mAh battery. So as Slade stated by running in parallel we increase the amp hours not the voltage and in doing so the run time of the device.
 

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[quote name='Viper;9468]This is a thread regarding the aPad iRobot' date=' not the Eken M001 (or clone of as per your link). The thread showing an opened aPad clearly shows a single 3.7V 2500mAh battery. So as Slade stated by running in parallel we increase the amp hours not the voltage and in doing so the run time of the device.[/QUOTE']Sorry, my bad. Anyway, just one 3.7V cell is great! If this could be applied directly (no workarounds) to M001...Good luck there, Viper and Slate.
 
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