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I took these after carefully diss assembling my unit bought from ebay!it is the flytouch variant, red charge LED, 2 bottom speakers, USB/Ethernet dongle.I am pretty sure the small PCB(circuit board) that is opposite the main board near the corner of the unit is the WiFi adapter which appears to just be a USB wifi adapter which was soldered to a cable rather than given a USB socket, 4 pin header on 1 end gives me that idea!EDIT-------------------------------------------------------i diss assembled the USB hub item and found it has no chips on it, just a board, all the connections go back to the dock connector, and there is a third USB header set which is not got anything soldered to it inside there. I BET thats the USB connector used to link to the PC. I may try later to prove that, then it would be possible to link to the PC and have the eth dongle present at the same time. The 2 black items on the board are just diodes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
[quote name='Erlang;35270]Yes' date=' and there is a USB camera near it. Sure it can be easily replaced with something useful, e.g. BT or 3G.[/QUOTE'] im interested in finding a Wireless N adapter with a simular chipset and seeing if it will work when i swap them. Wireless N Epad FTW.I also plan to swap the 1800mah battery for a 5000 i found online, looks to be very close to the same demensions
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
when i get home i will find it, im at work.
 

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added to the first post, i dismantled the USB / Ethernet adapter. Details in first post
 

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[quote name='tfields4800;35522]Share the link to the battery???[/QUOTE] As for Batteries there are some choices' date=' see the following part numbers on the following page, keep in mind Epad is 7.4 Volts, so without circuitry additions you need 2 x 3.7V [URL=batteries:GM5467100]batteries:GM5467100[/URL] - 3600 mAh - third from bottom - would need the voltage board/chip to make it 7.4 VoltsGM485080 x 2 - 4000 mAh (2000x2)GM065080 x 2 - 4800 mAh (2400x2) - NOT SURE this would fit, VERY CLOSE THO by my measurements, thickness is the question, may be to [email protected] PowerStream - [URL=http://www.powerstream.com/Custom.htm']Custom Battery Packs from PowerStream[/URL]Stock Epad mAh is 1800 contrary to what they say so almost anything is a step up!Stock Epad battery specs:1800 mAh7.4V-T424385+HY1007110106Standard:GB/T 18287-2000
 

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[quote name='MasterX;34663]...I BET thats the USB connector used to link to the PC. I may try later to prove that' date=' then it would be possible to link to the PC and have the eth dongle present at the same time. [/QUOTE']Hey, I am a flytouch noob, so excuse my ignorance. Is there any way to connect the USB to a PC? The hub seems to have female plugs, so would a PC. How are people running adb on these devices, over tcp only?
 

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[quote name='MartinFick;76267]Hey' date=' I am a flytouch noob, so excuse my ignorance. Is there any way to connect the USB to a PC? The hub seems to have female plugs, so would a PC. How are people running adb on these devices, over tcp only?[/QUOTE'] Try to get a cheap iphone, ipod or ipad usb cable. That will do the trick.
 

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[quote name='kiarov;76330]Try to get a cheap iphone' date=' ipod or ipad usb cable. That will do the trick.[/QUOTE'] OK, so there is not normal way. Can someone with one of those cables trace the leads to see how it is wired? i.e. is it wired to the same pins which go to one of the two USB ports on the dongle, or does it go to the "third" one?Would it be possible to instead simply get a male to male USB adapter (I have those around the house) and put it between the tablet and PC?
 

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MartinFick;76476 said:
Would it be possible to instead simply get a male to male USB adapter (I have those around the house) and put it between the tablet and PC?
Doesn't work for me (Linux Mint 10). Only message is
Code:
Nov  1 17:28:06 Pyrope kernel: [2133.480525] usb 1-6: reset high speed USB device using ehci_hcd and address 3]
. Will try under Windows 7 later.
 

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[quote author=MasterX link=topic=4534.msg36408#msg36408 date=1281649449]
tfields4800;35522 said:
Share the link to the battery???
As for Batteries there are some choices, see the following part numbers on the following page, keep in mind Epad is 7.4 Volts, so without circuitry additions you need 2 x 3.7V batteries:
GM5467100 - 3600 mAh - third from bottom - would need the voltage board/chip to make it 7.4 Volts
"""GM485080 x 2 - 4000 mAh (2000x2)"""
"""GM065080 x 2 - 4800 mAh (2400x2)""" - NOT SURE this would fit, VERY CLOSE THO by my measurements, thickness is the question, may be to thick.
[/quote]

Ok this comment on batteries is totaly messed up when you wire 2 3.7v batteries to make a 7.4v the mAh is not added together. So to make sure people understand here is an example you have 2 3.7v 2400mAh batteries and you want to make a 7.4v battery you will need to wire them in series positive (+) to the negative (-) like this +[==]-+[==]- you will now have a 7.4v 2400mAh battery pack. Now lets say you have 4 3.7v 2400mAh batteries if you were to wire them all in series you would have a 14.8v 2400mAh Battery pack but the device only take 7.4v so first we wire them into 2 7.4v battery packs now we wire the 2 positive (+) and the 2 Negatives (-) together like this

+[==]-+[==]-
| |
+[==]-+[==]-
| |
this is your positive-------->+ -<----This is your negative
You will now have a 7.4v 4800mAh battery pack. for best battery life use a smart charger and fully charge all batteries before assembling the battery pack

If you rely want to give you device more power the best bang for your buck is rc car battery packs heck for under $30US you can get a 7.4v 5000mAh battery pack on ebay and a balance charger and $2-3 for a connector that matches the devices charger connector you can have an external battery pack with no need to mod the inside at all

P.s.
none of these batteries listed would give much of an improvement or any at all the first one gm5467100-3600mAh if you use one with a voltage board it will be a lot worse then the standard battery of 7.4 1800mAh witch is 2 3.7v 1800mAh batteries wired together any one who has started using CFL light bulbs should have a basic understanding of what a Watt is more Watts means more power means the meter spins faster meaning bigger bill. So if a 7.4v 1800mAh gives us 13.32 Watt/hours and from all the time trials I have read the device uses about 6 Watts an hour so just over 2 hours of run time now a 3.7v 3600mAh also gives us 13.32 Watt/hours but the voltage board also consumes power to give a basic understanding of why I'll tell you first we take the 3.7v DC and convert it to AC and back to DC at 7.4v If you want to know all components I will tell just let me know. Lets just say each component of the circuit uses power lets say best case 50mAh so now your battery only has 3500mAh or 12.95 Watt/hours of power for you device not to mention you cant use the charger to charge it. It would kill the battery and burn your house down "So no matter what do not ever try to use only one battery"
 
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