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The heat coming off of the CPU in the M003, while it is on, is noticeable. In the hope of setting the stage for increased speed and stability, I decided to see if I could apply some sort of low-profile cooling solution for the CPU. Here's what I came up with: ** Make sure that your M003 is OFF before you do anything!**1) My M003 looks like it will be deep enough to accommodate a low-profile heatsink. This thing was either a northbridge or GPU cooler. It's aluminum, with an anodized finish, and is only about 3mm thick. 2) After disassembling, and inverting the M003, we can see the WM8505 PC board (PCB). The CPU is the larger black chip. To the left of the CPU is the NAND chip. The CPU's PCB is offset from the mainboard, so we'll need to figure out how to mount the heatsink. The dimensions of the heatshnk will allow it to cover the WM8505, and the NAND chip. Have a look at the pic below, and let's consider how to mount this thing:
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Here is what is in the pic:[list type=decimal][*]Super Glue[*]Non-conductive stand-off[*]Thermal compound[*]Metal shim (blade section from a boxcutter)[*]Heatsink[*]WM8505 PCB[/LIST]The screw tabs on the heatsink (5) give us some direction to go in. Looks like we could cement (1) one of the tabs onto the the PCB's connector strip. I will apply a makeshift stand-off (2) to stabilize on the other side. The standoff is actually just the gripper end from a small zip tie. Its dimensions work really well, and it's cheap! Now, let's examine the PCB. It's kind of hard to see from this angle, but the NAND chip is not as thick as the 8505 (6). We will need to find something to even things out, so that our cooling solution is level, and in full contact with both chips. We need a shim (4). The shim should be something that conducts heat. In this case, I've elected to use a section from a boxcutter blade, as it is virtually perfect in it's area and thickness for covering the NAND chip - and it's available. 3) Let's apply some thermal compound. I'm using Arctic Silver 5 - because that's what's here. Apply an even layer on the top of each chip that will come into contact with the heatsink.
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4) Now, apply the shim to the NAND chip. Again, we do this to make sure that the heatsink is level when we mount it. Another layer of thermal compound goes on top of the shim.
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5) The heatsink attaches nicely to the plastic of the PCB's connector strip. A couple of drops of Super Glue is more than enough. Position the standoff on the opposite side to stabilize. A drop of Super Glue on the main board, and one on top to catch the the other screw tab will attach everything on the other side. Avoid using too much glue, and place your drops away from visible circuits on the PCB and mainboard.
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After the heatsink is applied, let the glue dry for 30 to 45 minutes. Remember to use the glue sparingly. A little goes a long way. Also remember that the glue is a liquid until it is completely dry. Do not turn your device on until the glue has had a good long while to dry - just in case!To be fair, this solution is not entirely perfect. It causes the back of the M003 to bow out slightly where the heatsink sits. It does close easily enough, though, and there is no noticeable adverse effect on the rest of the device. The back remains cool under normal use, and IMO that's very positive. This sets the stage for some potential overclocking, and perhaps some better performance. There are as many ways to do something like this as there are people to try it. This is what I did, and it works pretty well. Inexpensive, relatively simple, and it works. **As with any modification, do so at your own risk! Not responsible if you harm your equipment.**
