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#21 jured

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:38 PM

No, sorry my posts are sometimes unclear. I meant the D70, not the battery.

#22 jured

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:51 AM

The new battery seems to take just as much time to charge with the tablet switched off as with the screen off. 12 hours, too long really so I will basically charge it each night, making the usage period say 16h, requiring less time to recharge.

#23 techno.plug

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:40 AM

Yeah, this AC charger of mine (700ma) takes ages to charge. Besides, I've noticed when the charging process is in progress, it charges sometimes for 5-10% then stops (flat white line in BWM) for an hour or less, then continues to charge 5-10%, then stops sometimes for 1-2 hours, then continues etc. Sometimes it helps if I just reconnect USB cable to the tablet, sometimes not. Sometimes it even charges completely in one sweep. I'm not sure if it's faulty charger, battery, or charging IC/electronics in the tablet.

I've ordered some 2.1A charger from DX to see if it'll help before ordering new battery, or maybe to contact ICOO although I don't expect any relevant support from them at all.

#24 jured

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:10 AM

If the graph was not visible to you, would you have worried about the charging regime at all? I think not. So don't worry about it. Try a bigger charger but be careful of any heating, as the hardware inside may not be designed for the higher current. Please report back, as I am also thinking about a bigger charger.

#25 K@mui

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 10:25 AM

I charge mine with a 1A 5V AC adapter from the 1st day I bought it. It's the AC adapter from my mobile. No problems, no heating.

Edited by K@mui, 11 February 2013 - 10:25 AM.


#26 Sartre

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 01:19 PM

I use mine with a couple 2A chargers (iPad style charger from DX, and one from my Le Pan II) and my SuperCharger enabled MSI motherboard (1.5A) with no heating.

#27 magpupu2

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:29 PM

with regards to the battery, from the pictures i have seen so far is it 3.7v 3000 mah? also the connectors of the battery to the board, is it just black and red or does it have other wires connected to the battery? the reason why I am asking is because i plan of putting a big lipo battery outside the case and just use a hobby style connector to attach the battery to the tablet and then use my lipo charger to charge the battery at 1c meaning i can charge a 5000 mah battery in under an hour. or even parallel 2 5000 mah to get 10,000 mah.

#28 jured

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:27 PM

Yes the battery has just the 2 wires.

#29 magpupu2

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 07:14 AM

where did you purchase the 5000 mah battery?

#30 Sartre

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 01:12 PM

where did you purchase the 5000 mah battery?


I bought mine here:

http://www.aliexpres.../740612434.html

There are a few more dealers there with the same battery for a dollar or two more.

#31 Mystdroid

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 10:55 AM

I have a question. My wi-fi is always weak, as it is possible to enhance the signal of the tablet? I never take the last notch signal even if they are attached to the router!

Another question. And 'possible to hook the small connectors to the wires of the battery without having to unsolder the wires from the motherboard? In this way, not touching anything, and it's easy to connect the battery to the tablet in the future. Someone tell me would know what "connectors" buy on dealextreme?
Thanks :)

#32 Sartre

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 03:34 PM

Maybe your wifi antenna wire isn't connected properly. I read on another forum where someone resoldered it and his signal improved.

Not sure what you want to do with your battery but I guess some tiny wire coupler would do. This one might be a little big... not sure about the dimensions:

http://dx.com/p/152188

#33 Patrickis

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 04:42 PM

Hello Jured and Sartre (and the other contributors of course !),

Thank you for this very instructive topic.
I also have an Icoo D70 Pro II bought from Price Angels.

Like everyone, I am very pleased with the power and overall specs of this tablet, but the battery is MUCH too small.
The motherboard is v3 and the battery is labeled 2500 mah.

I read the 5000 mah battery change post from the russian guy (Thanks to Google Translate)and would like to do it myself.
However, the operations are not clear at all.
For instance, I see that this battery comes with a small integrated board. Do you have to unsolder it or do you have to keep it.

I have then a few questions :
1 - Jured states that it is less complicated that the russian guy said. Can you give detailed instructions about how to do it.
2 - Are there any cons about using a big(!) charger like the Ipad one (10W or 2000 mah).
3 - How do you root this tablet. Zhuodashi does not work
4 - For the moment my tablet is in a boot loop trap. Do you know how to get out of it. Price Angels is not cooperative at all here.
Someone made a film about this boot loop trap and my tablet is exactly in the same state :



I installed without problem CWM 6 and the darkwaterv2 rom. Now I am stuck with this boot loop !

Thank you for your help.

#34 jured

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 08:32 AM

Yeah I should really post an English step by step...

Here is a short version. The photos do not really show a step-by-step progression, they are meant for clarifying some things cryptic in the description.

0. Open the case. Slide a thumbnail between the case halves, or a plastic blade, being very careful to only snap open the links and not push the implement too deep. Work both long sides starting away from the connector side and work towards the side where the connectors are, until all snaps are loose. Lift the back lid away, moving it it the direction where the connectors are so these can disengage their respective holes.
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1. Desolder the existing battery wires. Switch the tablet off first.
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2. With a thin blade, cut through the double sided tape holding the battery to the display's back. I used a blunt vegetable knife to not risk damaging the display.
3. I removed the sticky residue with WD-40. Be careful to limit the stuff from spreading. I used a cotton bud. Afterwards I cleaned the WD-40 with methylated alcohol.
4. Desolder the speaker. Detach from the back; it is stuck down. A knife point will get ot out of the recess.
5. With coarse sandpaper, remove say 1mm from the back panel inside where the battery sits. I didn't mess with the speaker recess like the Russian chap did.
6. Unwrap the battery terminal PCB and desolder the wires. You will need to lengthen them. Don't detach the battery's PCB - that is not beneficial.
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7. Fit the battery with the pcb facing towards the front of the unit. The wifi antenna is in a bit of a recess next to the display; that recess is enough for the battery PCB also.
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8. Check if the back panel can be snapped closed. I used my soldering iron to trim the plastic bracket near the corner for the display. The Russian shows he used a knife.
9. Solder the longer battery wires on to the Battery PCB. Route them past the edge around where the speaker recess is located when the back is on. Route them past the camera connector and then onto the PCB. Determine the correct length, cut and strip, solder to the correct polarity pads. But solder the speaker wires back on first, as they end up under the battery wires. I made my wires a bit short so I was not able to route them past the camera connector, resulting in having to crowd past the connector.
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10. Use double-sided tape to hold the wires in place. I pressed them into the space next to the display.
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11. I left the wifi antenna where it was. I have excellent reception, except when I am at the opposite end of the house and my left hand is shielding the antenna. If you have poor reception, check that connections are clean as shown, on both ends where these are connected. The wifi antenna has a piece of conductive aluminium tape holding it in place as well as earthing it to the display back metal plane. These are important parts of the whole.
Posted Image

12. I didn't stick anything else. There is no room for anything to move so no need for glue. Just the wires I needed to keep from getting where they shouldn't.

Edited by jured, 25 February 2013 - 01:27 AM.


#35 Patrickis

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 05:49 PM

Hello Jured,
Thank you for your explanations.

My tablet shows a very strange behavior :
I connected other USB cables between the tablet and the original charger and one of them got me out of the boot loop.
So this flashing screen might not be a software problem.

I reinstalled the original rom dated 20 november from the Icoo site, then CWM 6.027 then in turn the Darkwater v2 Rom and the Jured rom.
All these operations went perfectly well and the tablet was always connected to its charger. A few minutes (the flashing time) separated the three rom tests so the battery should have shown the same indications in all three cases.

With the original rom, the battery indicator shows an almost empty battery (charging) which is the reality, while in the Darkwater and the Jured rom, the battery indicator shows 100% (no charging) !

Have you heard about this and how can I make these custom roms show the right indicator (and charge the battery, of course !).

Now I flashed back the original november rom and let the tablet charge for the night.
Thank you.

Edited by Patrickis, 24 February 2013 - 06:16 PM.


#36 jured

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 10:22 PM

I am fairly sure the looping problem was not software-related, but charge state related. Good that you got out of it.

Flashing another ROM almost always has the resulkt that the on-board files are not in sync with the actual state of charge. Usually re-sync happens when the battery is full, when the batt files are updated. You can do this manually, it is usually called battery calibration, but it isn't really, all that normally happens, at full charge, the battery files get updated.

So most likely, the batt files in those ROMs were captured with full or near-full batteries. It is a good approach to fully charge the battery before messing with flashing ROMs. This is usually the first step in the procedures that I have seen.

#37 Patrickis

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 05:02 AM

Hello Jured,
Very nice work :clapping: .
Thank you for your explanations and your pictures.

I answered you in tne thread :

http://www.slatedroi...__gopid__644490

I will go again into the whole process of flashing Darkwater v7 with a full battery and let you know.
BTW which rom is better : Darwater v2 for D70 Pro II or generic V7 and where can this last rom be found ?
Thank you.

Edited by Patrickis, 25 February 2013 - 05:07 AM.


#38 jured

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 07:50 AM

Darkwater is based on the D70pro2 ROM, and is therefore "better." But it is based on 19/12/2012 D70 ROM, whereas my rom is from a day later. I also made a very detailed ROM comparison, and they are actually identical, with the only difference in the pre-loaded apps oncluded in /system.

#39 Patrickis

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 05:11 AM

I went through all the process of reflashing the tablet :

1 - Get out of the flashing boot loop by using various chargers and cables (I do not know how, but it worked)
2 - Install the original november rom from Icoo site with RKBatchTool
3 - Fill the battery for one night - i.e. until it is full or almost full
4 - Install CWM 6.0.27 with RKAndroidTool
5 - Install Darwater rom v2 using CWM

And now it back to normal and works very fine !!!

It still has the same lousy battery though so I am ordering a 5000mah one now and follow the instructions of Jured for the installation.
Thank you.

Edited by Patrickis, 26 February 2013 - 05:12 AM.


#40 Atlantius

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 05:32 AM

Can someone who already assembled the D70PRO II with the 5000mah battery, how many hours the battery holds now? Does it fix the problem with the charging of the battery that a lot of the D70PRO2 have?